24 Hours in Dubrovnik

Of all my ‘24 hours in’ editions so far, I think Dubrovnik is the one that is most deserving of a longer stay to fully enjoy everything this magical place has to offer. Unfortunately, it is also one of the most expensive places I have ever been (seriously, I’ve found cheaper places/things in California!), so for anyone on a budget – 1 day may be more than enough for the wallet (especially during the peak season in summer when the prices are jacked even higher than normal).

Basics

Dubrovnik (historically known as Ragusa) is Croatia’s southernmost city, located along the Dalmatian coast region of the Adriatic, part of Croatia’s semi-exclave, separated from the rest of the country by a small strip of coastline belonging to Bosnia and Herzegovina.

Dubrovnik has also been added to the World Heritage Sites list compiled by UNESCO, in recognition of its outstanding medieval architecture and fortified old town.

It has also seen an extreme resurgence in popularity, mainly due to its use as an international filming location – due to its prominence in the popular TV show ‘Game of Thrones’.

Facts & History

Dubrovnik can trace its roots back to around the 7th century CE, back when it was a small town known as Ragusa. Following this, it came under the protection of the Byzantine Empire and later under the sovereignty of the Venetian Republic. Indeed, many of the buildings and structures found in the old town today are from the Venetian period.

After breaking free from the rule of Venice in the 14th century, Dubrovnik acted as a free state up until the 19th century. The city was never a stranger to prosperity, proving its importance in maritime trade at the time. Thanks to this, it achieved an elevated level of development while ruling itself and became notable for its wealth and skilled diplomacy. At the same time, Dubrovnik became a cradle of Croatian literature – with many well-known figures basing their activities around here.

Thereafter becoming occupied by the French Empire forces during the Napoleonic Wars, it was eventually incorporated into the Napoleonic Kingdom of Italy and later into the Illyrian Provinces. To add to its complex history, Dubrovnik moved on to becoming part of the Kingdom of Dalmatia within the Austrian Empire. Afterwards, Dubrovnik was absorbed into the Kingdom of Yugoslavia upon its creation. And finally, during the events surrounding the Croatian War of Independence in the 1990s, Dubrovnik became part of what we now know as Croatia today.

How to Get There

Dubrovnik has its own airport for anyone flying into this part of the country specifically, with cheap flights being offered by EasyJet, WizzAir, and Jet2 from other destinations in Europe.

Reasonably priced coaches are also well connected here, coming in from a variety of other points in Croatia, and neighboring Balkan states. A week after I left Dubrovnik, the Croatian government officially opened the new bridge which bypasses the Bosnian border – which should provide travellers coming from the country’s northern region with an even quicker journey.

Dubrovnik is also a major port city, so many Mediterranean cruises will stop here as part of their journeys.

What to do

There’s no shortage of things to do in Dubrovnik, which helps it live up to its name as a tourist hotspot. Unfortunately, most, if not all, attractions here have entrance fees – and high ones at that. If you are here for just a short stay or are on a tight budget, then I recommend that you do some prior research and choose wisely what you want to do while here.

• Walls of Dubrovnik 

Dubrovnik is a fortified city, with its old town completely enclosed within high stone walls. This has kept the city safe over the centuries and has now become the city’s most visited attraction. However, it costs a staggering 250kn ($33.18/£29.10/€33.24) to enter and walk the length of the walls. So, I opted to spend my money elsewhere.

• Old Town 

Just walking around the streets of the old town is a rewarding experience in itself. Stacked full of history and gorgeous Venetian architecture, you can easily find a ton of treasures hidden amongst its confined alleyways.

Don’t expect to ever be alone, though. Dubrovnik was built during a time before the days of tourism – so, it does get very crowded even during its off-peak season. You can guarantee that even its ‘secret spots’ have now been exposed 100s of times over since its rebirth as a top Mediterranean destination.

• Mount Srđ 

Srđ rises up past Dubrovnik and presents visitors with the most sweeping views of the old town and surroundings from the best possible vantage.

The peak contains the old Napoleonic fortress which now houses a small war museum which has not only detailed information boards, but also a range of pictures and videos for guests who are more inclined to visual elements.

As well as numerous observation decks which are free to use, the visitor center also has a café and restaurant on the cliff edge. Both of which you can expect to pay the usual prices associated with the old town below.

Thrillseekers also have the option of doing a panoramic zip-line experience, located just outside of the restaurant.

Personally, I just used my time to explore the hillside, and the amazing views below – as the weather was as clear as could be.

The mountaintop can be reached either by cable car for 200kn, or by hiking up the zigzagged mountain path from the streets below. I chose the latter, and it took about 1 hour to climb from the base. I would say the hike is medium-to-difficult.

• Lokrum Island  

Lokrum Island is less than a 10 minute’s boat ride from the Old Town Harbour and you will be carried off to a realm of lush nature. This is also one of Dubrovnik’s more popular attractions, however, so don’t bank on finding tranquility as such here – there are most likely to be crowds here too, especially in the summer.

The shuttle boat service runs hourly from the port’s harbour for 40kn return. The island is small, but you can have your own adventure here through the thick undergrowth, and even discover for yourself the ruins of the patrician’s summerhouse or the old monastery. Make sure to bring a change of clothes too, if you want to take a dip from the rocks and into the turquoise Mediterranean waters.

• Lovrijenac Fort 

This impressive triangular shaped fort is found just outside the western walls of the city and is famous for being paramount in Dubrovnik resisting Venetian Rule. The story goes that it was completed in 3 months by the locals, before the Venetian forces returned to build their own fortress on the exact same spot.

The fortress is made up of 3 terraces, containing information on many compelling stories from Dubrovnik’s rich yet turbulent past. Those familiar with Game of Thrones will also recognise this place as King’s Landing, and many of the series’ most memorable scenes were shot at this location. It now proves to be a popular sunset spot, so beware of crowds come nightfall.

• Franciscan Church and Monastery

While there are many historical buildings you can enter around the old town, I made a point of going here as it was specifically recommended to me beforehand. The Franciscan Church and Monastery is found just right by the main entrance on the west side of the walls. Built in the 14th-century, this church and monastery is centered around a gorgeous Romanesque cloister complete with stunning murals and a vibrant green garden in the courtyard.

The opposite side of the entrance contains a small pharmacy museum and an internationally renowned collection of ancient manuscripts. The pharmacy itself (which is found just before the entrance) is said to be one of the oldest in Europe that is still operational. It won’t take long to explore everything, but it is an impressive place, nonetheless.

Tickets cost €4, though the receptionist just took €2 from me and said I could go through – maybe you’ll get lucky too!

• Bellevue Beach 

Lying on the Dalmation coast, Dubrovnik has its fair share of beaches within walking distance of the historic center. By far the best, in my opinion, is that of Bellevue. As with most of Croatia’s beaches, it’s composed of pebbles, not sand, so be sure to bring appropriate footwear.

Either way, this is the ideal location for swimming, and you will find yourself surrounded by Croatia’s world-famous crystal-clear waters. Again, it can easily get crowded here – so, it’s best avoided if you want somewhere more peaceful (you probably won’t find a quiet beach nearby) or come early in the morning to escape the usual influx.

Other beaches in the area include, Danče, Šulić, Sveti Jakov, Banje and Uvala Lapad. All of which experience similar levels of popularity.

• Velika and Mala Petka Forest Park 

Perhaps the best place to escape what can otherwise be an overwhelming place, this recreational area is far enough away from the old town that you won’t find the usual crowds of other nearby spots.

You can easily spend a full afternoon walking around here, or even just find yourself a nice little quiet spot to read a book or watch the world go by.

Numerous paths exist within the park, and there is also an abundance of great viewpoints to be found throughout.

Where to Stay

The cost of accommodation in Dubrovnik is crazy, and, of course, the prices for any type of stay will rise in price during the peak months. An extremely basic hostel bed in a dorm, for example, will set you back around €50/night minimum in a location outside of the old town during the summer.

If you’re on a tight budget like I was, then your best bet is to book far in advance to ensure a wider range of options for (more) reasonable prices, or even better, consider Couchsurfing with a local to avoid any accommodation costs and potentially do some activities with your host – should they be available to do so.

Other Things to Keep in Mind

If you truly want a more authentic (and cheaper!) experience, then take some time to step away from the old city walls. I’m not talking a couple of blocks, because you will find more of the same. I am referring to the other side of the hill where most of the residents reside. Here you will find ample number of bakeries, cafes, bars, and restaurants that are much more reasonable in price – still for the same quality.

Another clever idea is to visit out of season. The weather might not be guaranteed, but you will find the streets a lot quieter, and the prices for many things lowered as well (this is frequent practice in Croatia from my experience).

One thing I wasn’t aware of until halfway through my visit was the ‘Dubrovnik Pass’. Set up by the local tourist board, this pass has 3 variations; 1 day, 3 days, and 7 days. The cost changes somewhat dramatically depending on whether you are visiting in the summer or winters seasons, however, so I recommend checking the official site here to stay up-to-date. This includes many of the city’s top attractions, and when you consider the price of the City Walls entrance purchased separately, then this is a great idea for anyone looking to visit several attractions – as it will cost you less than buying tickets to each place individually. The pass can be bought from the tourist information center, or from several shops dotted around.

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