The Albanian Riviera – Undiscovered Slice of Mediterranean Heaven 

The Albanian Riviera (commonly referred to in Albania as Bregu) is the country’s southern stretch of coastline, which encompasses the districts of Sarandë and Vlorë (it’s common to see the ‘ë’ in Albanian anglicized into an ‘a’, Saranda and Vlora for example). North to south, this stretch refers to the areas Palasë or Dhërmi, down past Sarandë towards Ksamil on the Greek border.

Not to be confused with the entire coastline of Albania, the Riviera is the country’s tourist hub for nightlife, summer retreats and lavish resorts. Of course, the main attraction of the Riviera is the nature itself, however – namely the turquoise blue water which stretches the entire length of the Riviera.

While there are plenty of places you can delve into, my journey was focused on 2 spots; the city of Sarandë, and the seaside town of Himarë – both are coincidentally 2 of the most visited in the region. I used these two locations as my bases for my visits to surrounding areas.

Sarandë – where to go and what to see

I heard good things about Sarandë before I arrived. The pictures I saw online also painted it as somewhere dreamy and enticing. I try not to build my expectations too much before I go to a destination, but suffice to say Sarandë did not disappoint.

While it is officially designated as a city, the whole area feels more like a large coastal town. There are no skyscrapers or corporate buildings in sight. The streets are lined with hotels, hostels, resorts, bed & breakfasts, apartments-for-rent etc – it was immediately clear that this was a place structured around tourism. That should not put you off, however. Sarandë feels like a more low-key destination than a lot of its Mediterranean cousins and it certainly hasn’t hit the overtourism levels that many other parts of Europe have been experiencing in recent years.

As with most beachfront getaways, this is meant to be a place to put your feet up and enjoy the perpetual sun and sea. Do not worry if you feel like you need a change of scenery though, there is plenty to do if you take just a few steps off the main promenade.

If history is what you are after, then be sure to check out the old synagogue just beside the main bus station (if you can even call it that) – there sadly isn’t much left today apart from the foundations, but there are some information plaques set up to provide you with the background. Otherwise, prepare to climb up either of the two hills which sit above and behind the city. The first houses the Old Monastery of Forty Saints on its top. The entrance fee is 200 Lek, and while the monastery now lies in ruins, the views of Sarandë and beyond (you can see Corfu on clear days) are unrivalled. The adjacent hill has Lëkursi Castle sitting on top. There is no entrance fee to get in, but it should be known that it now operates as a private venue hosting various events and complete with its own restaurant. I had no issues exploring the grounds by myself though, and as well as the history, there are again some superb views from here.

I was there during the summer months, and walking is not recommended during that time (though I was crazy enough to do it anyway). The best option is to either rent a scooter or take a taxi ride up.

Just a little south of Sarandë, towards the Greek border, is Butrint National Park. The park is just under 10,000 hectares in size, consisting of a diverse range of natural features such as freshwater lakes, wetlands, salt marshes, open plains, reed beds and small islands – and is primarily centered around the ancient Greek (and subsequently Roman) city of Butrint. Numerous structures still stand within the park today, including sections of the old city fortifications, a huge basilica, a couple of castles, and most notably, the Roman theatre. The entrance fee for foreign visitors stands at 700 lek, which is overpriced for Albania in my opinion – but it remains one of my fondest memories during my time in the country.

Close to Butrint is the little beachside village of Ksamil. You just need to look at some photos online to understand why this place is often labeled as paradise. Now, this is somewhere that is experiencing overtourism in Albania, so don’t expect to find peace and tranquillity anywhere here. But the beaches here are some of the best in the country – the soothing rolls of the waves across the crystal-clear water had a hypnotic effect on me the moment I arrived. Most of the beachfront has now been privatized. Unfortunately, however, there are still a handful of spots you can use. The rule in Albania seems to be that if there is space for your towel, then you can sit there.

There isn’t much to do here other than relax, so keep that in mind for visits. Ksamil also has significantly higher prices for everything when compared to the same products and services available in Sarandë. Regular buses to/from Sarandë can be taken from near the entrance to the ferry terminal at a fixed fee of 150 lek – regardless of stop. Otherwise, a car or taxi is your best bet as it is too far away to consider walking there.

Another trip you should think about doing from Sarandë is the Blue Eye. Designated a natural monument, this truly is a place of mystery. The Blue Eye is a water spring and natural phenomenon, with its source remaining unknown. Previously, divers descended to about 50 metres, but it was still unclear what the real depth of the hole was.  What I do know is that the water is ice cold. The information board states it is a constant 10 degrees Celsius, yet it feels more like minus 10.  Many were swimming (this is forbidden but there was nobody regulating them during my visit), so do whatever feels comfortable. Just know your limits though, we were told of casualties who suffered heart attacks from the shock of the piercing cold water.

The location is a mere stone’s throw away from the city and can easily be reached by car or scooter. Buses have always stopped here to let tourists off on the way to Gjirokastër, but with my visit coinciding with the advent of the new highway opening, buses have started to bypass this road all together. I am unaware of the present situation, but I imagine designated buses will either now be running there or running soon – as this is a hugely popular spot.

Himarë

My next basecamp in the Riviera was the small coastal town of Himarë, which is located a 54km drive from Sarandë. It is a lot more lowkey than Sarandë, but that doesn’t mean lesser than in any regard – this turned out to be one of my favorite locations on my whole Balkans trip!

There are lots of things to do in Himarë itself and even more things to see nearby too. In fact, with this proving to be a high point of my Balkans trip, I ended up spending well over a week with this cozy little town as my base.

One fun fact I learned only after leaving this tiny piece of paradise is that it is predominantly populated by an ethnic Greek community, and most of the inhabitants are fluent in both Albanian and Greek (though I cannot say I noticed any Greek being spoken during my time).

While it is a lot smaller and quieter than its nearby cousin, Himarë’s popularity has been slowly creeping up in recent years. Nonetheless, I did find it to still be a chill spot, though slightly more expensive than Sarandë.

When looking for things to do here, look no further than the straggling beaches. The shoreline in this beachside utopia is also some of the country’s best. With the size of the town, it won’t take you long to reach the shore.

If you are up for a bit of a challenge and/or want to escape possible crowding, then consider going to Filikuri Beach. This hidden treasure is tucked away at the end of the peninsula around from the town’s main beach. It can only be reached by kayak/boat or by scaling down the hill with the aid of ropes which have been kindly set up to help keen beachgoers. As such, it is only recommended to visit when weather conditions are optimal, but be ready to have your socks blown off (if you’re not wearing sandals – which aren’t recommended for this walk by the way).

The local castle is the best place to watch the sunset in the area. It will take around 45 minutes of walking, or about a 10-minute drive up. Because of its position and the westward mountain obscuring the horizon, the ‘sunset’ will happen around 30 minutes before the actual time, so prepare accordingly if you want to see the spectacle. There isn’t a great deal left of the castle, nor much information available onsite as to its history, but as a history lover it was cool not to do some exploring between the buildings to see what I could find.

As I said, there is a lot surrounding the town to visit. Unfortunately, public transportation is not well connected between these spots, so unless you have your own method of transportation, then you will have to take a taxi or hitchhike. I chose to rent a scooter from ‘Rent Scooter Himara’. It was a little pricier than the scooters my friends rented at Sarandë, but as this seemed like the only option, I went with it (€20 for a 24-hour period wasn’t so bad when I think back on it).

My first stop on my scooter tour was the postcard perfect tiny bay of Porto Palermo, with the castle of Ali Pasha situated directly behind the bay. This is a very laid-back spot, with a small pebble shore for sunbathing, or plenty of flattened rocks to sit on – some conveniently under trees for anyone who lacks a parasol. The castle is overall small and contains little inside (aside from information as to what each room is), but commands excellent views over the bay and surrounding mountains from one side and across the Mediterranean Sea from the other.

From here, following the coast as if heading back to Sarandë, the road will slope up and around the mountain pass and you will come across indescribable views of the striking little village of Borsh – my next destination. There are several pull-outs high above that you can use to stop, take in the views below and even take some pictures. Once again, the main attraction here is the beach. The beachfront is huge, and spans about 7km, so there’s plenty to explore if you have the time.

The following morning, I continued my scooter tour over to Dhërmi. Admittedly, it is far but worth the drive over. The old town of Dhërmi is built on mountain ridges in a valley, at about 200 metres above sea level. I parked the bike and took some time to stroll around the street, as there is not only some nice traditional architecture but also plenty of amazing views from all angles. There is also the ‘Monastery of Saint Mary’ here, which offers the best views of the valley, but I learned it was quite a trek up some cobbled paths, so I decided against it with the summer heat looming over my head. Instead, I once again opted to head to the beach to cool off. Dhërmi Beach is located down the valley and is about 1.5km from the turnoff. The beach here, too, is long, so finding a space wasn’t a problem. I personally found Borsh a lot nicer, but I admit that it set a high standard in my mind.

Where to Stay

As I mentioned earlier, there is no shortage of accommodation here. Prices in Albania are much lower than most other countries in Europe too, so you can expect to find a variety of options all the way down from the lower end of what can be considered budget friendly. During my time here, I stayed at 2 different hostels in Sarandë, and 1 while in Himarë. The first being the Wallaby Hostel. This one is quite a hike up the hill, so be prepared if you have a lot of luggage. The hostel has the reputation as a party hostel, but, due to noise complaints, the main lounge is closed at 10pm, so I found no issues with being able to chill or get an early sleep. A basic breakfast is provided, just do not expect anything too fancy (there was no coffee, which was my biggest complaint).

One benefit of staying here is that they have made a deal with one of the local beachfront bars, ‘Cocktail Dreams’, to offer hostel guests free unlimited sunbeds. You still must pay for drinks, but they are in the mid-range when compared to other nearby bars. The hostel also owns a local pub, the ‘Tuneli Bar’ – and guests again benefit from this in the form of drink discounts.

The next hostel I stayed at in Sarandë after returning from Corfu was ‘Backpackers SR’, located directly across from the ferry port. This was ideal location-wise as I only had to walk a few steps. The hostel was more like converted apartments, which gave a much more intimate vibe to the place – which is ideal for socializing with others. Breakfast here was also included but was a lot more substantial (no coffee again though).

My friend was working at ‘Himara Downtown Hostel’ during my visit, so I went for that one. Conveniently located in the town center, the beach is just directly down from the hostel. The hostel even offers free parasols and beach towels to rent!

This is a chill hostel, so not a great one to visit if you want to party. I was pretty burned out after a cumulation of various events, so I was thankful for that. The beds also come equipped with curtains for extra privacy, which is always a nice bonus. Breakfast was by far the best out of the 3 accommodations I stayed at in Albania. The owner prepares it herself with a variety of fresh ingredients which change day-to-day, and best of all, there is fresh coffee available upon request!

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