My 2 Week Guatemala Itinerary: Where to go, what to do, where to stay

I spent a full 14 days in the Central American country of Guatemala during 2021. I did find 2 weeks a little bit tight, as there was a lot of ground to cover – but unlike my usual trips, I did have to book the return ticket out before I arrived, as I had a close friend’s wedding to attend. So, by all means, use this as a guide to see what appeals to you, but remember this isn’t all this wonderful country has to offer!

Basics

Guatemala is located in Central America, directly below Mexico, and also bordering its neighbors Belize, Honduras and El Salvador. Once the heart of Mayan Civilization, this wonderful little country has everything from volcano hikes, lush jungles, rich wildlife, delicious food, and even glorious beaches if you venture to its coastlines.

Recommended Length of Stay

• Antigua Guatemala 4-5 days

Based on the activities and sightseeing I did here, I suggest this amount of time to gain a thorough in-depth experience here. There are tons of historical sites, mainly in the form of religious institutions that have survived the past great quakes that devastated the areas. On that note, another major activity that many travelers partake in is the nearby volcano hikes – the most popular being that of Acatenango.

• Lake Atitlan 4-5 days

This depends on how many different towns you plan on visiting/staying around the lake as there are a few, plus several attractions associated with each. There are about 10 towns circling the lake, 5 of which prove to be popular tourist destinations. So, you should find not only a lot of choice, but also a lot of variety – as each town has its own distinct feel.

• Semuc Champey 1-2 days

The National Monument will only take one day to do, but you will have to take transport to and from into consideration. You’re probably looking at least a 10 hour drive due to the remoteness of this one, but it is also my personal highlight of Guatemala – and many of my travel buddies who came here agree, so I think it’s worth pencilling in your itinerary.

• Flores/Tikal 1-2 days

Again, the ancient Mayan city of Tikal can be done within one day, but you will also have to take travel to and from Flores into consideration. As before, you’re probably gonna spend at least 10 hours traveling here – depending on where you come from, of course. All transport will take you to the small island on the lake. This is the old part of the city of Flores – with the new part of the city being found on the shores of the lake. The old part of the city also acts as a tourist hub, and you can easily find tours to Tikal from here.

Nobody should come to Antigua without a volcano hike up Acatenango to see its sister volcano, Fuego, at sunrise. This is quite a taxing experience, so I would only recommend it to physically fit and able travelers. It’s a 1525m/5000ft climb to the summit camp, and the guides keep a steady pace. Despite the physical endurance required, there are otherworldly views the higher you get, and you get the chance to pass through various different ecosystems. And of course, the main attraction is from the encampment you arrive by dusk. From here you get a full on view of Mt. Fuego. It’s a little intimidating at first, as there are frequent eruptions – so it’s definitely not recommended for the faint of heart. Nonetheless, I am grateful for having had the chance to experience this.  This is an overnight hike, and you will need to set aside a full 24 hours for the hike itself (essentially a full 2 days when you consider everything involved).

Another highlight was the short climb up the hill at the edge of the city to go to the Cerro de la Cruz viewpoint. This point offers the best views of the city from above, as well as its encircling volcanoes.

I stayed at Somos Hostel since I already knew a couple of people there. I highly recommend it for any backpacker. This is a quaint little hostel that is hosted in an old Spanish colonial structure – and true to the architectural style, the rooms are built around an open courtyard. The back portion features a small bar and a hot tub. It has a laid-back vibe overall, and I found its clientele to be very open and friendly. In fact, all of my subsequent travel buddies for Guatemala I met here.  If a shared-accomodation is not an option, then don’t fret. Being accustomed to tourism, there are a wide range of hotels and Air B’n’B’s on offer too!

The hostel offered a sunrise hike at 4:45am the following morning in exchange for some free food. My travel buddies and I obliged, as even though I hate early mornings, I couldn’t resist some complimentary food. The hike is up to Mirador Corazón del Cielo and takes about an hour to reach the prime view point. It’s pretty strenuous, and also was a little slippy/muddy due to condensation and previous rainfall. Also make sure you have your phone or a flashlight handy too, as it will be pitchblack until the sun rises. If this sounds like it is up your street, then I can tell you that the views from the top are out of this world. We could even see Mt. Fuego erupting in the distance due to the crisp clear visibility. Once back at the hostel, we decided to spend the afternoon making full use of the free paddleboards that were on offer. I hadn’t tried paddleboarding before, so it was a little challenging at first, but it was a memory that has proven to be a highlight of this trip!

Our next stop was San Marcos for 2 nights. It’s very much a hippie town and you will realize this as soon as you step out of the boat. There’s numerous places offering services related to yoga, spirituality, healing, as well as a variety of organic, vegan and health-food shops. Some people love this type of vibe, others not so much. All this aside, I found it a nice little town to relax and unwind. There is also a nature reserve by the port called Cerro Tzankujil. You can take a hike up to the top to get some amazing vistas of the town below and the surrounding lake. At the bottom of the reserve are several cliffs popular for jumping into the cool water below.

Our last activity here was the Indian Nose hike. Indian’s Nose (La Nariz de Indio), is situated 2863 m/9393ft high and overlooks the villages of San Pedro, Santa Clara and San Marcos. Its name comes from the fact that the profile of the mountain looks like a sleeping Indian with the viewpoint as its nose, or so the story goes. Previously, the pinnacle was considered sacred by Mayans, who would conduct religious activities at the top. In terms of what to expect for the hike, I would say it’s extremely similar to the Mirador Corazón del Cielo hike mentioned above. You can expect to hike for around 40 minutes to reach the top. You should be back by no later than 10am.  Expect to pay 100Q for the hike if booking as part of a tour. This again involves waking up at the crack of dawn in order to get transport to the base of the hill. You can take this particular tour from most of the towns around the lake, not just San Marcos. If mornings aren’t your thing or you’re looking to save a bit of cash, then I am aware that it’s also possible to take a bus to do the hike yourself. Expect to pay for the vistas at the top in this case though, we were informed that they are privately owned.

We also spent a day in San Juan without staying over. It’s loud, busy, cramped and bustling everywhere – I associate it with my own images of downtown Bangkok (probably in part due to the Tuk-Tuk’s driving all over here too). This is another town that centers around parties, so I didn’t feel like there was a great deal to do within the town center in terms of sightseeing. Although we did have a pleasant day just exploring the various backstreets to see what we could find. There are also plenty of charming restaurants and cafes offering fresh local food.

Semuc Champey

In all honesty, Semuc Champey was a real hassle to get to. Designated buses only leave very early in the morning, our group ended up missing it as we really wanted to do the Indian Nose hike before we left the Lake. Definitely our own fault, but beware that you will have to be organized in order to make the trip. Thankfully because there were several of us we were able to chip in for a private ride from Panajachel. This involved going to several tourist agents to find not only one that was available to leave straight away, but also one that was a suitable price. Another thing to bear in mind is that because of the journey time (it took us about 12 hours from Lake Atitlan, as we also got caught in traffic when crossing through Guatemala City) you will likely arrive in the evening or later if you don’t leave in the morning – probably the main reason why the buses leave first thing. So, if you do plan on arriving later I highly recommend that you book a hostel within Lanquin (where you will be dropped off) for the first night. The reason being that the road from Lanquin to Semuc Champey is on an unlit dirt track that the majority of vehicles will not be able to pass, so if you want accommodation by the attraction itself then it’s better to wait until the following day.

With all this in mind, I can safely say that the outstanding beauty of Semuc Champey itself completely compensates for the effort it took to get there. It’s a designated natural monument which consists of a natural limestone stepped bridge with turquoise pools at 300 meters in length, that runs over Cahabón ridge and is sandwiched between two steep lush green hills. It truly is a natural wonder of the world that should not be missed out on!

The accommodation (Pachamaya Eco Lodge) we booked just outside of Semuc Champey for the following day offered a free shuttle from Lanquin to our site. From my understanding, most if not all accommodations in this proximity offer a similar service due to the remoteness/ difficulty most might have to reach there. So, be sure to message ahead of time to make arrangements.  The entrance to Semuc Champey was only 5-10 minutes walk from the lodge. Be prepared, however. Being in a dense tropical jungle, any walking will be a sweaty affair – so dress as lightly as possible (and don’t forget your swimming clothes if you wish for a dip in the water to cool off).  The entrance fee is Q50 (approx $6.50), and the park is open from 8am until 4pm Tuesday-Sunday.  passing through the ticket gate, you will be presented with two options; going directly to the limestone pools, or climbing the stairs to the viewing platform.  I highly recommend the latter first, as it means you can take as much time as you want afterwards to relax in the pools. The climb takes about 30 minutes in total. With the humidity in mind, I highly suggest bringing a water bottle with you if you want to take the climb. When you do reach the top you can expect to find local hustlers selling fresh fruit such as mangoes and watermelon.  When you do reach the viewing platform, expect to be blown away with the view. The cascading natural pools can be seen in their entirety, which gives a real sense of what a true natural masterpiece they actually are. As if on a set of steps, the water calmly trickles towards the edge and into the river below.

The pools themselves were fantastic, especially after the trek we just took. The water is lukewarm and crystal clear. There are various points to swim, and even jump into the pools. This is definitely a spot you might just want to spend the entire day at.  Please bear in mind however, that as this is a natural formation you should always exercise caution – as the rocks can prove either sharp or slippy at different points.

Flores/Tikal

Last on my itinerary was the combo of Flores and the UNESCO World Heritage Site of Tikal.

Flores is the capital of the Petén Department, and acts as the gateway to Tikal. The main tourist hub is located in the old part of the city on a small island located on Lake Petén Itzá. The majority of tourist centers, hotels and hostels are spread across this small island.

There isn’t a great deal here in the way of sightseeing or activities due to its tiny size. You will, however, be able to find some local delicacies on offer, as there are several food outlets. Additionally, you can treat ihere as a base-point for meeting other travelers, if you feel inclined to do so.

Tikal itself can be booked either through your accommodation or via a tour company directly. It’s best to check a few, as prices can vary quite significantly – and can also be determined if you are part of a group, how big that group is, if you are willing to join another group (if solo or a small group), or whether you want a private/solo tour.  It’s worth noting that when you book a tour to Tikal it won’t be the same-day, since you will be getting picked up to get there first thing in the morning.

A little about Tikal; it’s the largest pre-Columbian Mayan civilization of its kind. While the city now lies in ruins, the level of preservation is outstanding. I’m sure many think of Mexico when they hear Mayan, but the reality is that the Mayans also extended throughout what is now known today as the countries of Guatemala, Belize, Honduras, and El Salvador.

The site is huge, so not only would it take an enormous number of people in order for it to be crowded, the reality is that there are almost no people, so you are often the only tour group there (at least that was the case when I was there). There is a wealth of history to explore. Being with a tour does mean that there will be a time-limit, though I did find our guide to be fairly flexible with us. On top of that, with a tour you will get first-hand knowledge and the history of not only the sites, but also the Mayan civilisation as a whole. I can only speak for our own tour operator here, but the guides hired were all of Mayan descent, so they took sharing valuable and accurate knowledge with tourists very seriously, and were more than happy to take any questions from the group throughout.

The complex is very remote and spread across a jungle, so you will also have a chance to see some beautiful wildlife while on site. During our time there, we were able to witness howler monkeys, spider monkeys, coatimundis, agoutis, parrots, trogon birds, tarantulas, and woodcutter ants. There are also jaguars, snakes and crocodiles, though we didn’t see them (thankfully).

Other Things to Keep in Mind

I don’t believe in generalizing safety for entire countries. Although I never encountered any problems during my own trip, I recommend exercising common sense as one would usually do. Additionally, I have seen several recommendations not to flash signs of wealth or valuables while out as this can make you a target (this wasn’t an issue for me personally). It seems this is more evidently a problem in Guatemala City, though as I didn’t spend any time there outside of the airport I cannot give my own personal experience.

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