2 Weeks in Cyprus over December: The Perfect Winter Getaway Destination  

I spent two weeks traveling through Cyprus in December 2021, and based on my experience I believe that this is the perfect winter destination if you live in/happen to find yourself in Europe.

Being off-peak in winter season, you will avoid all the usual crowds that flock to the island in the summer months, while still getting to relish in the island’s beauty, charm, and all-round good weather! For this reason alone, I would recommend this island at this time of year to any autistic travellers, it was relaxing, and I sometimes had entire sites to myself to enjoy!

Basics

While geographically part of Asia, Cyprus can be categorised politically and culturally as part of Europe (it’s a member of the European Union too). As such, cheap flights operated by EasyJet and Ryanair are plentiful from across the European continent, so you shouldn’t have any difficulties in getting to this island paradise.

Along with Spain’s Canary Islands, and Portugal’s Madeira and the Azores (all of which lie in Africa, also outside of the European continent), Cyprus is one of the best places in the EU to find a consistently warm Mediterranean climate all year round. You might have to expect some rainy days (I think there were 2 or 3 during my stay), but you can typically enjoy 20° Celsius heat daily. If you thrive in the warmth like me, then this makes it the perfect getaway within the EU, without the need of venturing too far away.

It’s also important to mention that Cyprus has an internal hard border.  While internationally it is recognized as one nation under the Republic of Cyprus, Northern Cyprus is a de facto state that is recognized only by Turkey. This has been the case since 1974, and I recommend you read more on the history if you’re interested, as I won’t be covering it in this blog post. Bear in mind that this does mean that you do have to cross land borders if traveling between the two, however, and as such the COVID entry policy differed between both states.

The South has adopted the Euro, while the North makes sole use of the Turkish Lira. It doesn’t stop there, due to the North using the Lira, you can expect to pay less for almost everything. A lot less; sometimes half the price you would pay in the South, allowing for currency conversion.

There are however several hostels on offer in the South that are very affordable in my opinion and are also great for meeting others traveling through Cyprus. However, please be aware that as of present there are no hostels in Northern Cyprus. Nonetheless, numerous cheap guesthouses, private apartments and Airbnb’s can be found without very much difficulty – but this does mean that it is a lot harder to meet other travellers here if you usually rely on staying in hostels to make connections.

Cyprus is a relatively small island, but one that packs a punch. Rich in local, as well as Greek and Turkish cultures, cuisines and other curiosities; Cyprus really is a place where you gain insights into a rich history and a rich multicultural lifestyle for tourists and residents alike.

How to Get There

Being a small island, chances are you’ll be arriving by plane here (here are no available ferry services between other Mediterranean nations as far as I am  aware).

There are 3 airports on the island, 2 in the Republic of Cyprus (Paphos and Larnaca), and 1 in Northern Cyprus (Ercan International, just outside of Nicosia). Flights to/from Paphos and Larnaca are well connected with Europe, as well as some more limited options to Middle Eastern nations and Egypt. All major budget airlines that operate out of Europe (Ryanair, EasyJet etc.) have chartered flights here, so shop around to get the best possible deal. Flights to Ercan International only operate out of Turkey.

Where to go

• Paphos

I began my journey in Paphos. I was lucky enough to be able to stay with a Greek family friend who now resides here. I spent a total of 4 days here, which I felt was just right to see all the main sights and attractions I had on my itinerary.

The first day I spent mostly at the Tomb of the Kings archaeological site – a designated UNESCO World Heritage Site. The underground tombs on site are carved out of solid rock and are now thought to have been the burial sites of aristocrats and high ranking officials. It is said that the name of the site comes from the fact that the tombs are magnificent, there were no kings ever buried here. Many of the tombs themselves can be traced back to the 4th century BC. Some tombs are better preserved than others, but I found it nice to just explore each one for myself and see what I could find along the way. Thankfully, there are information boards located at each site to give you an in-depth understanding of what each tomb is and the history behind it.

The second day I spent entirely in the archaeological park. The site encompasses a huge area and there are many different sites within the park itself, so it is easy to spend the whole day here if you want to – like I did. The Park includes about a dozen sites and monuments from various periods, most of which date to the Roman period of the island’s history. There are some intricate mosaic floors of Roman villas that remain almost intact in some areas – a highlight for me.

Apart from historical sites, I recommend a visit to both the beachfront/harbour area of Paphos and the old town. There isn’t too much in the way of sightseeing at either of these locations, but it makes for a relaxing day of just strolling and exploring in my opinion. There’s a lot of beauty to be found in every square inch of this cosy little seaside town.

• Nicosia

Nicosia is a city divided, much like Cyprus itself. As mentioned earlier, there is a hard border between the North and South, so you will be required to cross this in order to get to either side of the city. This is a painless process, however, and only takes a few minutes at most.

I spent 3 days in South Nicosia, staying at the amazing NEX Hostel, which I can’t recommend highly enough. There’s plenty to see and do in 3 days – all within a relatively close distance, so be prepared to do some walking around the streets.

There are numerous museums that are worth checking out for anybody who has an active interest in history/archaeology. I would personally recommend the Leventis Municipal Museum of Cyprus and the Cyprus Museum.

Old town is also a must to check out and this is also where you will find most bars, restaurants and stores. It’s easy to get lost in the backstreets, where you will encounter a plethora of hidden gems waiting to be discovered. Make sure to also give the Shacolas Tower a quick visit. The top floor features panoramic views of the entire city, North and South.

North Nicosia has a totally different vibe to it; one that’s hard to pinpoint, but it’s not exactly worlds apart from the south side either. One can enjoy traditional Turkish or Turkish-Cypriot food (as well as amazing Turkish tea/coffee shops) throughout its winding labyrinth of pedestrianized streets. Numerous ‘hipster’-styled spots are now also common, though you can expect to pay a bit more than their traditional counterparts.

There are also plenty of museums on this side that are worth stopping by, many are small so they shouldn’t take up your whole day.

• Kyrenia

Kyrenia is a beautiful port town lying on the north coast of Cyprus. Stroll through the streets of the old town, where you will encounter various ruins of the Lusignan walls and towers which originally formed a protective shield around the town. The town also offers a vast array of shopping outlets providing everything you could hope for – from the latest designer brands to local souvenirs (not to mention a great selection of restaurants serving fresh seafood). Kyrenia also has a lot of casinos. I’m still not entirely sure why, but if you feel like trying your hand at a game or two then this is the place for you too!

By far the best historical site worth checking out here is the Kyrenia Castle. It’s a large site to explore, offering various museums located within certain rooms that offer unique insights into various aspects of the castle’s rich history. And that’s not to mention the amazing views you will get from the upper walls. From the castle you can see the rolling cliffs in the distance. I haven’t been to Cape Town yet, but the resemblance to pictures I’ve seen is uncanny. Prepare to be amazed by the grandeur of this place.

There are also several other attractions located just outside the town itself that are highly recommended to stop by. Bellapais Village, the setting for Lawrence Durrell’s classic novel ‘Bitter Lemons of Cyprus’, is only several minutes’ drive away and the 13th century abbey there bears attests to the fact that the village has changed little since the time of the novel. Nearby Crusader castles of Hilarion North Cyprus, Kantara and Buffavento are particularly remarkable. All of which are open to visitors and offer outstanding views of Kyrenia and beyond – thanks to their lofty heights. Also, West of Kyrenia lies a variety of orchards, verdant forests and fertile plains – so, there is something for everyone here!

• Famagusta

Famagusta was the absolute highlight of my trip – it’s not a place to be missed!

It’s a beautiful resort city on the east coast of Cyprus, in the Northern Cypriot part of the island.  Much like Nicosia, the old part of the city is built within the enclosure of Venetian walls. The area within these walls is where most of the attractions are, and you will surely be overwhelmed by the richness of history here that vividly paints a picture of Cyprus’ colourful past. Byzantine, Roman, Lusignan and Ottoman ruins can be found at almost every turn, expertly woven in with more modern structures to create some unforgettable scenery. The main attractions are Othello’s tower (named so as Shakespeare’s play of the same name was supposedly set in Famagusta) and the Lala Mustafa Pasha Mosque. Though there are dozens of other landmarks and attractions located within the city that will hopefully keep you intrigued.

Otherwise, you can head north by car or taxi to visit the ancient city of Salamis and the Saint Barnabas Monastery. Both are located within close proximity to each other and should take no longer than 20 minutes to get to by car/taxi. Neither of these are to be missed, despite falling under the radar of most visitors. That does, however, mean that you can enjoy the splendour of these locations almost entirely to yourself – especially when you consider the area that Salamis encompasses.

Within the last 2 years, the Northern Cypriot government has finally reopened the infamous Varosha to visitors. For those that don’t know; Varosha was the original tourist quarters of Famagusta, hosting countless luxury hotels and apartments, while offering some of the island’s most pristine beaches. This came to an abrupt halt in 1974, which saw Cyprus divided into Northern Cyprus (Turkish) and the Republic of Cyprus (Greek). However, after asking some locals why it was left abandoned unlike everywhere else in the island, I was informed that; while Famagusta fell within the Northern territory which became Northern Cyprus, much of the property in Varosha was Greek-Cypriot owned. Unable to return, this left the area in somewhat of a stalemate, which is still the case today.

Nowadays, there is only one access point into Varosha which is patrolled by the military. At the entrance is a bike rental, which allows you to rent a bicycle for just 10₺ (less than $1/£1/1€). I recommend doing this on a pleasant day, as the area opened for access to the public is pretty big. The rule is that you should stick to the open path and not go in any of the buildings, and there were several military patrols in the area while I was there.

• Ayia Napa

Ayia Napa is world-renowned for its well-established club scene and parties. Winter here is very different from the summer season filled with tourists. In my eyes, this makes it the perfect getaway in winter for anyone seeking a refuge away from the usual crowds.

The town of Ayia Napa itself is small, and it is generally more of a party/relaxation destination, so don’t expect much sightseeing. There are plenty of lovely beaches all along the coast, however so you will be spoilt for choice. Also, within the centre there is the Monastery of Ayia Napa – unfortunately it was closed for refurbishments, so I couldn’t explore inside. But if you’re an architectural lover like me then even admiring the grand exterior will be a reward in itself. A five minute walk from here is the old aqueduct. Although no longer functioning, this extremely high aqueduct remains virtually intact. There is a trail to either side, and you can even climb on top of the aqueduct walls at certain portions along the trail. This gives you some amazing views of your surroundings.

Just outside the town lies Cape Greco Peninsula. There are buses running to and from the town centre, so you can get to various locations along the peninsula with ease.

There are hikes across the peninsula and surrounding area, offering some amazing, rugged scenery. Here you can also find various sea caves and natural bridges that have become famous photo spots. Don’t expect to find much sand to lie on, as much of the coastline is very rocky. The only notable one is Konnos beach, which is north of the peninsula, towards the end of the hiking trails.

I spent a whole day exploring here and my legs were aching by the end of it, so consider either taking a car to make various stops or split the sights here over 2 days. Also, consider bringing some drinks and snacks if you plan on walking for a while, as food options are sparse through the area.

On the way back to the town centre, I made a quick pit stop at Sculpture Park and the adjoining Cactus Park.  This open-air museum is 20,000 square metres of contemporary art sculptures from various artists across the world. From enchanting to downright bizarre, I spent some time just getting lost in the plethora of sculptures. Apparently new works are added every year, so you can guarantee it will be a new experience with each visit! Make sure to also explore the wonderful little cactus park on site too if you want to take in some of the natural healing powers of being surrounded by lush green.

• Larnaca

Located on the southern Coast of Cyprus, Larnaca is the third largest city on the island (after Nicosia and Limassol). I only managed to spend 1 day here, due to booking a last-minute flight to leave due to an unexpected turn in the forecast that would’ve put a dampener on the rest of my trip (pun intended).

I got to see most of the things I wanted to see while I was there, however. I think maybe an extra day to go a bit further afield from my hostel would’ve been ideal for me personally, but it will depend entirely on what you intend to see/do while you are there.

Perhaps the main tourist attraction here is the Church of Saint Lazarus. This 10th Century complex remains one of the most important monuments constructed in Cyprus during Byzantine rule. Entry to the church itself is free, however the adjoining museum requires payment for admission.

Last on my agenda before I left was the Larnaca Salt Lake. It covers an incredibly large area, so I suggest setting aside at least a full morning or afternoon to cover ground – especially if you want to walk around the entire perimeter. It’s one of the best spots in Cyprus to see flamingos residing in their natural habitat, so if you are an avid bird watcher then be sure not to pass up the opportunity to come here! Aside from nature watching, the Hala Sultan Tekke Mosque on the west bank is worth a visit.

Other Things to Keep in Mind

There is a lot more to see and do within the centre of the island. Think hiking, mountain villages, wineries, remote monasteries etc. However public transport doesn’t exist in these parts, so you will have to rent a car if you wish to visit any of these places.

I’ve also been told that the summer heat can prove unbearable for some. if you do decide to go during the summer months then be prepared to deal with 40-degree heat daily

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