My 2 Week Experience Living with Bedouins: The Ultimate Wadi Rum Desert Guide

I’ve had a lot to reflect on during my time in Jordan. But having spent the majority of my time in Wadi Rum, this enchanting protected area has left perhaps the greatest impression on me.

Being a desert you might think that it’s a boring place to be, with nothing to do other than being surrounded by endless amounts of sand. However, I’m here to tell you that the reality couldn’t be further from the truth. Also known as the ‘Valley of the Moon’ – this nickname highlights the charm of this seemingly barren wilderness.

I arrived in Wadi Rum after spending two nights in Aqaba (where my flight arrived). I had a Workaway arranged in Wadi Rum before my arrival in Jordan, so I knew I was heading straight to Wadi Rum after taking a couple of days to explore Aqaba. Unfortunately, I had planned to leave Aqaba on a Friday and only found out the same day that there were actually no public buses that day, but that there ‘might’ be a bus at an area away at the other end of the city, but there was no guarantee. Not wanting to stay an extra night in Aqaba, I resolved to walk in the direction of this supposed bus but to take the first taxi I could get a reasonable price for – because in all honesty, I did have a lot of luggage, it was hot, and I knew I was going to be hounded by taxi drivers on the walk there anyways. I eventually found a taxi willing to take me to the village for 25JOD. I was told 20JOD was a fair price, but this guy didn’t budge at this point so I conceded, just wanting to get to my destination hassle free at this point. Not the best situation, but I wish I had the information about the buses before I arrived in Jordan.

So, do not travel on a Friday if you intend to take a bus. Taxi or hitchhiking will end up being your only options. So yes, getting there might have been the hardest part for me, but what was in store for me over the two weeks I spent there made it all worth it!

The village itself has pretty good services so I was able to contact my Workaway host upon arrival at the entrance to the village (this is also where most will leave their cars in the carpark and meet their guides). He showed up in his 4×4 with two of his kids, where we exchanged a brief greeting before traveling to his house on the other side of the village. Upon arrival he told me I would be staying in the guesthouse and that I would have a free day before formally starting my Workaway the following day. My Workaway was to help with tours and taking photographs for their usage.

My host and his family’s kindness and hospitality over those two weeks definitely didn’t go unappreciated. During that time, I got to know the tour routes and destinations by heart. So, I’d like to share them with you so you can see for yourself what a magical place Wadi Rum truly is.

Basics

Wadi Rum is a large protected area. It is a desert valley cut into the sandstone and granite rock in southern Jordan 60 km (37 mi) to the east of Aqaba; it is the largest wadi in Jordan.  The area has been constantly habituated by humans since prehistoric times. Nowadays, virtually all the residents living within the protected area of Wadi Rum are of Bedouin origin and, until very recently, led completely nomadic lives. You will have to pay 5JOD for your visit at the visitor centre, unless you have already purchased a Jordan Pass.

Recommended Length of Stay

Many tourists do 1 or 2 full/half-day tours. This is enough time to cover most, if not all of the main sites you will visit on the tours.

How to Get There

As previously mentioned, there are buses available from other major destinations in Jordan. Just not on Friday’s, so please beware of this if you are relying on public transport to get around the country.

If you are arriving into the country by plane, then Aqaba Airport is by far the closest in the country.

Where to Stay

There are two options here; camping/glamping or bed & breakfast (within the village). The former is what the majority of tourists will go for as it is usually included as part of their tours. There are easily 50 different desert camping sites available across the desert-scape. They all vary in design, comfort, and luxury. So if these are important factors to you then be sure to explore your options online before arriving. Numerous tourists will show up without any bookings however, and will find a host, tour, and accommodation on the spot.

What to do

• Lawrence Spring (Real name: Ain Abu Aineh)

Lawrence Spring is usually the first stop for most tours, as it is located just outside of the village. This is a small area at the base of a mountain, featuring a Bedouin rest stop (a common feature throughout the desert) and camels. The name is a misdemeanor however, as the real spring mentioned by Lawrence is a different, nearby site mentioned below. Halfway up the mountain is where the actual spring is located. Assuming you have time on your tour then you can climb up. Honestly, the spring itself is pretty uninspiring these days, but the views on the other hand – Wow! For about 20 minutes of climbing, it was definitely worth it.

There are also old Nabatean inscriptions on a large boulder at the base, next to the rest stop. These were originally carved for fellow travelers, and detail the location of the spring. With so many camels kept onsite here, you will usually be given the option to take a camel ride here as an addition to your main tour.

• Lawrence Spring (Real name: Ain Shalaaleh)

This is the spring that Lawrence of Arabia wrote about in chapter 63 of his book the ‘Seven Pillars of Wisdom’ (more about that location later). So technically, this is the real Lawrence Spring. Again, about halfway up the mountain is where the actual spring is located.

It is also said to be the spot where the troops of Lawrence and Faisal gave their camels water before the decisive attack on Aqaba Fort during the Arab Revolt.

No tours are conducted here at all, however since I was staying in the village it was very quick and easy to get to. I reckon, it will take no longer than 30 minutes to reach the spring from the base. This area was once a Nabatean aqueduct, and several remains (as well as engravings) can be found around the spring, but I don’t think they are all that noticeable anymore.

• Khazali Canyon

Khazali Canyon is another fairly short stop. You can proceed about 100 meters into the canyon before it becomes impossible without climbing gear. However, you will get to see some fascinating rock formations caused by years and years of wind and sand. Also, there are some great inscriptions and drawings from Nabatean times that are very well preserved. They include images of women giving birth in a traditional stance that is apparently still used today, along with camels and the Arabian Oryx (no longer present in the area unfortunately).

• Sand dunes

There are numerous sand dunes across the desert. TI went on 2 tours with tourists that took them to: the one opposite Khazali Canyon – not overly steep and gives amazing views across the valley, and the one at the end of Burrah Canyon – these are very steep, and most tours will let you sandboard here (don’t miss out on this!).

Don’t let these sand dunes fool you, getting to the top can prove a real challenge. I think it can be considered a workout on its own!

• Seven Pillars of Wisdom

None of the tours went here, I’m not entirely sure why. It’s a pleasant walk from the visitor center – not too far at all. It takes its name from the book by T.E. Lawrence – not the other way around. It’s a mountain range that looks like it is made up of seven vertical pillars. A pretty interesting rock formation, it also makes for a relaxing hike; due to the overall lack of traffic and tourists present.

• Alameleh Inscriptions

These are perhaps the best preserved examples of ancient inscriptions present throughout the entirety of Wadi Rum. None of the tours I participated in went here, but when I took the initiative to go myself there were several tour groups present, so I guess it just depends on your tour operator.

You can’t actually climb on the rock to get a close up view, due to preservation efforts. But you can get a full view from several lower standing rocks. The inscriptions mainly consist of camels and other native wildlife from the time it was carved.

• Burrah Canyon

A long deep canyon sandwiched between two imposing mountains. This will most certainly be included in your tour. Your driver will drop you at one end of the canyon entrance and drive round to the other side to meet you (cars aren’t accessible through the valley here), so you can enjoy a pleasant stroll and take in all the dramatic beauty this place has to offer. It is also here where you will be able to sandboard down very steep sand dunes (sitting is highly recommended).

• Nabatean Temple

The word Nabatean may not be familiar to you, but these are the same people who built the ancient city of Petra, and Hegra (Mada’in Salih) in Saudi Arabia. Their establishment and demise predates Islam entirely, so all such temples are dedicated to pre-Islamic Arabian Gods and Goddesses – with this temple in Wadi Rum being dedicated to the Goddess Allat. This temple in particular doesn’t hold up to much unfortunately, as only the lower portion of the ground floor is left standing. This might be one of the reasons tours don’t stop by here, but I think it’s a pretty cool spot to check out nonetheless.

• Sunset Spots

There are various popular sunset spots across the region. The choice of which one you will go to is usually based on your guide’s preference as well as distance from your previous tour stop. They all offer a different experience of course, but all are bound to startle you by their stunning beauty. I find the landscape attributable to how the surface of Mars looks.

• Little Bridge

One of the natural rock bridges that tours usually stop at. It isn’t that high, nor is the distance to the ground from under the bridge, so you shouldn’t worry if you’re afraid of heights. It’s a pretty easy climb to the bridge, and should take most people no more than a couple minutes. Most will come here for the perfect photo opportunity and to get some stunning views of the surrounding area.

• Um Frouth Rock Arch

Another natural rock bridge. This one takes a lot more courage in my opinion. The climb up itself isn’t so high/hard. However, the bridge itself looks pretty slender and is a considerable distance from the valley floor below – so tread lightly if you go up and be sure to be very careful while up there.

• Mushroom Rock

This is a very brief stop most tours will stop at for tourists to take pictures at before moving on. Anyone who has been to Cappadocia in Turkey (there are plenty of other locations with similar formations too) will be familiar with these impressive rock shapes.

Due to years and years of being constantly battered by strong winds carrying dust and sand particles, the erosion of the softer base rock eventually takes place.This results in a comparably narrow base and sizable top layer of harder rock, resembling the shape of a mushroom.

• Lawrence’s House

So called because T.E. Lawrence supposedly was stationed here briefly during his time in Wadi Rum around 1917. However, the house itself was built atop an even older Nabatean structure that was used to welcome passing caravans. Not much is left standing today, however a quick jaunt up the hill behind offers some impressive views along with thousands of cairns left by previous travelers – which you yourself can contribute to also.

Additionally one can engage in hikes up Jabal Umm ad Dami (the highest mountain in Jordan) or the Burdah Rock Bridge, which is found high up another mountain. Hot Air Balloons are also available. I did none of these during my stay so I cannot comment, however they are all separate from the sites mentioned above that tours will usually take you on. From my understanding, you will be looking to pay at least 100JOD for any of these 3 given activities.

Other things to keep in mind

Being a protected area you should remain respectful when visiting, and don’t go against anything your guide tells you for your own safety and to preserve the area.

Hot running water is a scarcity here in my experience. Maybe some of the more luxurious camps have it, but I didn’t get any myself.

Within the village many of the bathrooms have ‘squat toilets’ only, thankfully most campsites now offer flush toilets.

There are 2 restaurants located in the village, as well as a handful of supermarkets. Meals will be provided on the tours however, so you probably won’t need these unless you decide to stay a little longer.

If you liked this article and would like to support my work, then please consider clicking on one of the buttons above to donate a little to either buy me a coffee or support my business initiative. Your generous support enables me to keep creating new and better content, as well as cover business development costs. Please only do this if you are financially able to do so, as these are challenging times for us all – Thank you!